Girdered Cropped Bomber in Transparent Leather — Natural, Size IT 48 / US 38

Edfu, Rick Owens's Spring/Summer 2023 collection, took its name from the Egyptian temple city and reached for clothes that felt excavated and engineered at once. This girdered bomber walked the Edfu runway as Look 25. It is a cropped blouson divided by horizontal seams like the beams of a building, a shape the house also cuts in opaque black leather. For Edfu, Owens rebuilt it in translucent hide, so the frame that normally hides inside a garment becomes the whole point of it.

The leather is cowhide treated until it turns translucent, a material developed with ECCO Leather and used across the season, here in a natural ecru that clouds and clears as light passes through it. Horizontal panels cross the chest and upper back, and the seams show through as darker lines, so the construction reads like a drawing of itself. A ribbed knit stand collar, deep ribbed waistband and ribbed cuffs anchor the boxy, cropped body, which closes with a front zip. The sleeves are cut long and full, with box pockets set into them. Made in Italy.

What it reads as is an X-ray of a bomber jacket: armour with nothing to hide, the most utilitarian shape in menswear turned into something closer to a lantern. It is one of the season's most direct statements, and one of the few Owens pieces where the material does all of the talking. Size IT 48 / US 38.