Cropped Leather Shearling Vest — Grey/Green, Size IT 38 / US 2

Prada's Fall/Winter 2018 women's show was built on neon, rubber and nylon, and on Miuccia Prada's stated wish for women to walk the street feeling strong and fearless. It also introduced a run of new graphic Prada logos and badges that looked borrowed from another decade. On the runway this exact combination, grey crackle leather turned out in vivid green shearling with a graphic Prada badge on the chest pocket, walked as look 23, an oversized coat to mid-calf. This vest is the same idea cut down to almost nothing: cropped short, sleeveless, and finished so it already looks lived in. Prada files it under its Montone Vintage group, shearling processed to look aged rather than new.

The outside is grey leather with a deliberately crackled, broken-in finish, darkened along the seams and edges. Turned out at the collar and around every edge is the other side of the skin: dyed sheep shearling of Icelandic origin in a saturated, almost synthetic green. A wide lapel folds back to show it, the armholes are bound in it, and at the back a band of it runs along a horizontal yoke seam. The front closes with grey snaps, a single patch pocket carries the rubberised graphic Prada badge from the runway coat, and a green leather Prada Milano label sits inside the collar. Made in Italy.

What it reads as is the runway coat reduced to its warmest parts and worn as a statement rather than insulation: the grey keeps it serious, the green makes it impossible to ignore. Layered over a knit or under a long coat, it does more with less than almost any outerwear piece. Size IT 38 / US 2.