Disrupted Breton Stripe Knit Cape — Lily White, Size IT 48 / US 38

Francesco Risso's Spring/Summer 2022 show for Marni, Wear We Are, was staged in Milan in September 2021 and built around the act of getting dressed together. In the days before, his team fitted some 400 guests in upcycled cotton pieces hand-painted with stripes, so the audience wore the collection's language back at the models. Stripes and daisies were the season's two motifs, and the Breton-stripe ponchos were its clearest statement: the most familiar nautical sweater in fashion, pulled apart and rebuilt as something else entirely.

It is cut as a cape rather than a sweater. A chunky rib-knit Breton stripe in lily white and black is assembled from panels that run in different directions, joined with seams left deliberately raw, so fringed edges fray along every join and the stripes break and resume across the body. The wide neckline can sit high or slip off the shoulders, and the hem drops into long, uneven tails, so the piece moves like a blanket thrown over the body rather than a garment cut to it. The hang tag names it a men's mantella; on the runway it was worn by women, and it sits easily on either.

What it reads as is the marinière disrupted: the most classic sweater in the French wardrobe taken apart and stitched back together with every seam on show, so it reads less as nautical cliché and more as a manifesto. It belongs to one of Risso's most generous moments at Marni, a collection designed to be shared. Size IT 48 / US 38.