Wool-Cashmere Tailored Trousers with Side Adjusters — Dark Olive Green, US 30 / IT 46

Kim Jones' Winter 2022–2023 collection for Dior Men was a portrait of the founder rather than a reinvention of him. Shown in Paris on Christian Dior's birthday, it went back to the couturier's own wardrobe — the English flannels and Scottish tweeds he loved, the country-garden ease of La Colle Noire — and recut it for a man who would actually wear it. A Birkenstock collaboration took the headlines, but the season's real argument was made in cloth and construction, and its tailoring is where that argument holds best.

This trouser is cut from a dark olive green blend of 95% virgin wool and 5% cashmere, soft and faintly mottled in the hand yet dense enough to keep a pressed crease from pleat to hem. The waist is set twice over: belt loops for the conventional route, and at either hip a webbing side adjuster running through a silver-finish metal slide, drawing the waistband in from 40 cm to 33 cm flat. An extended tab closes the front, forward pleats give room through the hip, and slanted pockets sit at the sides; at the back, two pointed-flap pockets mirror one another. The leg tapers to a turned-up hem that lands just above the ankle. Made in Italy.

Side adjusters are a bespoke tailor's device — the reason a suit trouser never needed a belt — and most ready-to-wear quietly drops them. Keeping them here makes this a hybrid: Savile Row in its mechanics, Kim Jones in its cropped, tapered proportion, Dior in its insistence that the cloth comes first. It is Monsieur Dior's wardrobe, dressed for now. Size US 30 (IT 46).