Faux-Fur Long Coat — Brown, Size IT 40 / US 6

Riccardo Tisci built Burberry's Autumn/Winter 2021 collection as a tribute to his mother and eight sisters, and staged it through one of the house's oldest codes: the animal kingdom, rendered entirely in faux fur after Burberry ended its use of real fur in 2018. This coat walked as look 21 beneath a matching trapper hat, and it is that argument at its most literal: not a coat trimmed with the animal, but a coat that becomes one, down to the tails.

The long-pile faux fur is graded in brown, dark at the root and lightening toward the tips so the surface reads like a natural pelt rather than a flat dyed plush. It is cut collarless with a concealed front, letting the pile run unbroken from neck to hem, and the cuffs finish in a fuller band of fur. At the hem the body breaks into separate tail-shaped panels that swing independently as you move. Inside is a different coat altogether: the front edges are faced in emerald lamb leather, and the body is lined in matching green mulberry silk over polyester padding, a hidden colour that shows only when the coat falls open. Made in Italy.

What it reads as is a pelt worn as armour: Tisci's warrior-woman idea turned into outerwear, closer to a protective costume than to the trench lineage Burberry usually trades on. It is one of the most committed pieces from his tenure, and a far stranger object than a fur coat usually allows itself to be. Size UK 8 / US 6 / IT 40.