Grained Leather Cropped Biker Jacket — Black, Size FR 34 / US 2

Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga tends to work on the biker jacket by inflation: the calfskin version sold through major retailers has a high neckline, exaggerated shoulder panels and curved seaming, and the house's oversized racing jackets are made to look worn out. This jacket argues the opposite case. It keeps the moto vocabulary of the Ghesquière years, the lapels, epaulets and zipped cuffs, then cuts it above the waist in thick grained calfskin that holds its own shape. The volume sits in the stance rather than the sleeve.

The calfskin is heavy and grained, and it stands off the body instead of draping. An asymmetric zip runs down the front beneath notched moto lapels, and the collar snaps down to sit flat. Epaulets are set at the shoulders and a zip finishes each cuff. The structural move is at the hem: a wide belted band closes the jacket at the waist, so the short, boxy body can be pulled in and held. Inside, a bright red quilted lining flashes against the black shell. It is made in Italy.

Read it as a biker jacket that has been to a tailor: Brando's motorcycle code compressed into a cropped, hard-shouldered block, with the casual slouch taken out and a racing-red interior added back. It is closer to a uniform jacket than to a worn-in moto, and it works over high-rise trousers or a long dress for the same reason, because the proportion does the talking. Size FR 34 (US 2).